“[The appreciation of cooking was] a bit of wisdom that some American feminists thoughtlessly trampled in their rush to get women out of the kitchen,” he writes in An Omnivore’s Dilemma, as if it were the feminists who were advocating Hungry Man TV dinners instead of kick-starting the natural foods movements back in the day. Did feminists imagine cooking as drudgery? Well, they imagined it as work, unacknowledged and unpaid work that women were expected to do as part of their duties as caretakers of the nuclear family. Feminists weren’t anti-cooking, they were anti-unpaid labor; when Pollan and his sort say they want us to experience cooking as pure joy again, as pleasure, as part of the social fabric of our lives, do we risk forgetting that it’s work, and forgetting who, for the most part, is doing that work?